Processing+Film

=Important things to remember when processing film=

1. Gather materials: black bag, **dry** reel, **dry** canister, **dry** cap, **dry** pole, can opener, scissors, and your film. 2. Once all materials are gathered and put into black bag close both zippers and place arms in sleeves. (Once you open your film you CANNOT take your arms out of the bag unless your film is inside of the cannister with the pole wide part on bottom and cap secured on top.)
 * Rolling Film:**

//Mix your own developer 100mL developer to 900mL water and put the mixed developer on the top left shelf. NEVER ON THE COUNTER.

HOW TO MIX FIXER: 200mL Fixer: 800mL water: 30mL Alum. Converter (2:8 + AC)

HOW TO MIX FIXER REMOVER: 100mL Fixer Remover: 900mL water (1:9)//


 * Read the the chart on the wall if you don't know how to mix the chemicals. If you do not understand the chart than ask someone for clarification.**

//Check the temperature of the water and chemicals (developer). **Make sure that all of them are the same**. This is critical in steps 1-4.// The length of time the developer stage takes depends on the temperature of the chemicals, the type of film, and the ASA of the film.


 * BEFORE** using the fixer working solution (//a working solution is a chemical that is already mixed//) you must first check to see if they are usable. This is done by using the Hypo Chek® chemical for the Fixer working solution. If the drop of Hypo Chek® disappears and/or clears then the Fixer is good; If it becomes cloudy then it's bad. If the fixer is bad the result will be brown stains on the negative, the negative may also look milky. Please be sure to look for ANY kind of fogginess so that you can prevent going through all the steps and later realizing that you now have to go back and do them all over again. Dump the bad fixer into the bucket, not down the drain. Fixer and fixer remover contain silver nitrate; this does not naturally decompose; therefore, fixer and fixer remover must NOT be dumped down the drain. If the Fixer is bad, you can re roll the film and re-start the process at step 3 with a water wash to wash off the wetting agent.

//BEFORE using the Fixer Remover chemical must look blue before use; not clear. If it is not blue it has expired and is no longer usable.//

__IF YOU USE BAD FIXER REMOVER:__ It is not the end of the world! You will know if you used bad fixer remover if there is a silvery residue on the negatives after it has dried. Simply re-roll the negatives, put the roll in the container (w/o cover because it has already been exposed to light), and go back to step 5 to water wash the negatives and use GOOD fixer remover.

= = 1. Water Pre-Wet (1 minute) 2. Developer (See chart for time)- remember to check the temperature of the water to determine the length of this stage 3. Water Rinse (1 minute) 4. Fixer (4 minutes) dump back into fixer container. **NEVER DUMP DOWN DRAIN** 5. Water Wash (1 minute) 6. Fixer Remover (2 minutes) Dump back into fixer remover container. **NEVER DUMP DOWN DRAIN,** Silver Nitrate is a main component in fixer remover and is extremely //harmful to the environment.// 7. Water Wash (5 minutes) 8. Wetting Agent (30 seconds) : rotate film with finger: when done, pour into next persons container or back into the bottle (using a funnel so not to waste wetting agent). If wetting agent is bad, it smells. Dump it down the drain and mix new wetting agent, 1000ml water, 1 small capfull of photo flo. 9. Unwind film from reel and cut in half: then hang up with one clothes pin on the bottom. Be careful not to let the film touch anything. Keep it in a dry dust free place. When cutting put a paper towel underneath so as not to get anything else wet. 10. Clean up!
 * DISPOSING OF BAD FIXER/FIXER REMOVER:** Do NOT pour either of these down the drain! Put it in the kitty litter bucket under the sink in the film processing room.
 * Process for Developing Film:**
 * If you lose track of time, it is better to increase the time rather than cut it short.

Remember to agitate consistently for steps #2, 4, and 6. Agitate means to gently move the tank so that the chemicals are evenly dispersed on your film. You agitate for the first 30 seconds and then 5 seconds for every 30 seconds for the remaining time.